harry

All these responses and not a single Scylla & Charybdis smh

shhh don’t spook the wind

making 3ish in 6ish knots over the port beam on short crossing to Vulcano

But amusingly they still made (great) pottery featuring Euripides’ plays, even after imports ceased. Chimes with the apokryphos of Attic hoplites ransoming themselves with snippets of Phaethon :)

(So I think we can expect the Persians to keep liking jeans - if never again buying actual Levi’s.)

but after the Athenians’ idiotic, empire-destroying expedition - against a divided land far larger & far more able to unite in resistance than narcissist Alcibiades and his damn fool fig-showers (“sycophants,” read literally :) imagined (eh-ehm!) - production shifted to Siceliot centers.

…and though I’ve not yet, I have found a truly exceptional museum here on the acropolis in Lipara. This is not hyperbole - I’ve been to a lot of archaeological museums!

I’ve been most taken by the classical red-figure pottery. The early stuff is Attic as one would expect -

… and had a very long, very chill, very slow sail there. The wind was mostly a lie; here’s hoping I’ll find Aeolus and his magic bag around here somewhere.

While anchored off Tusa, an unexpected wind came up two mornings ago. I’d already spotted the Aeolians beckoning just on the northern horizon, so I sprang on the wind…

in the depredations of Varres (Sicily really has been through 3000 years of oppression, I’m learning).

It’s a arresting site - and another example of something I’ve come to notice: one can spot ancient polis from the leveling of their acropolis hill, even if the city is long fled.

It’s slow going without wind! But on the upside the calm seas made it safe to anchor just off the beach at Alaesa, a hellenized Sicilian polis just beyond Cefalu. (The modern down is called Tusa.)

Of little note, it rates a passing mention in Cicero and…

Fascinating scale armor on Athena - I don't think I've seen the type before - definite impractical fantasy female armor vibes.

And the creatures! The dragon, of course - but also Athena's hand owl (?) and the sphinx on her helmet.

And languishing Jason and his lank hair! Poor guy. Thx for sharing.

oh look he has a jaunty little scarf

Before that I spent a couple days anchored off the beach at Himera. I rowed into the heavily silted river and explored the site.

That’s a Norman cathedral, built by Roger II in the 1100s.

Still waiting for a decent wind. A slow week on the north coast of Sicily.

Sailed slowly into Cefalu two days past.

I find the double variety is a lot less likely to capsize under load

Anchoring off the beach at Himera - after Marsoelle, Empiries, and Selinous, the westernmost indisputable Greek polis.

No harbor, but anchoring off the beach ok: no wind forecast for another 6 days :(.

Moored in Panormus - the all-harbor. A lively sail east on a mild mistral, with the sun setting over Mons Pecararo.

And here’s exploring this morn

It’s a striking harbor and town. Here’s sailing in last eve.

Made a friend while wandering the streets of Emporion Segestum last night (Castellammare del Golfo)

Eventually his mom came by and reproached him for trusting the laps of strangers so readily 😸

‘generals always prepare to fight the last war’

I think they found the super big rudder on Indy especially fascinating

In the future all humans will be poets or peons

Actively annoyed when I’m asked to consider mopeds motorcycles.

same quest* 🤦

Sounds like we have the same question!

My first stop is Segesta, a small hellenized-Elymi polis (love the small ones) said to contain a superb Doric temple.

My mom made me a very fine Christmas gift for this sort of adventuring: The Barrington Atlas of the Greek and Roman World (pics) 😊

Landfall Sicily. It was a wild one - bare pole running at 6+ most of last night! At points 30 gusting 40 with 3m+ 🌊. Fickle February Med ⛵️

Here’s dawn today

Tim had a tiring 4am-7am watch 🤭

Broad reaching at 6+ in 20 knots. Two reefs. We’re 14m E of the Isle dei Cavoli & #sailing into the sunrise :)

To Sicily! I’ve a ~three day weather window to cross before the violent mistral that has characterized this Sardinian February returns.

Was lucky enough to sign on a watch keeper - Tim, a very tall German. He’s been adventuring about Italy in a solar-electric van!

Expect landfall Trapani 36h.