Zia Mari’s nieces remember her gathering and cooking chestnuts in the fall, dandelions for wine and salad in the springtime. She foraged wild mushrooms to serve over polenta, a staple throughout Barre’s Italian community, often served at community events with stewed chicken. Zia Mari was known for her style and her irresistible personality, for her commitment to her culture and its language. She lived through the transition of a food culture of necessity to a food culture of tradition and identity. It is the taste of Italy, and the taste of Vermont. It is the taste of immigration. It is the taste of survival.
Zia Mari was clearly preoccupied with fascism and the question of how her beloved Italy could have such a role in the terrors of World War Two. Italians in America during that period experienced immigration raids and revoked papers. This is the through-the-lookingglass part of this story: America Eats and the Barre stories were commissioned by the federal government not as a quaint exercise in local history, or just as a way to provide needed funding to artists and scholars during the Depression. Instead, the Roosevelt administration saw these projects as a way to fight rising fascist sentiment in our own country, by documenting the amazing, beautiful diversity of our nation, and of towns like Barre that were cultural melting pots. As World War Two rose and fell, suspicions against leftist politics and Italian-American communities grew, and these projects were simply shelved, only to be discovered half a century later and revived by scholars like Mark Kurlansky and Alfred Rosa. I look at these projects and think about my own storytelling work, and think…this is the long game. What we make now, it’s not just for now. Someone will read my work…sometime. I just don’t know who, or when, or what will happen to us all in the meantime. Grazie, Zia Mari, for what you saved for us.
Timeline cleanse: Diana Limbach Lempel's essay exploring Vermont's Italian diaspora and the remarkable life of Mari Tomasi. It's absolutely delicious and wholly antifascist.
open.substack.com/pub/conventi... #immigration #italianamericans