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Posts tagged #surfscience

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Surfers brave subzero temperatures to ride rare slushy waves in Montauk In Montauk, on one of the coldest mornings of the year, the Atlantic delivered exactly that. A frozen, fleeting wave that felt less like the ocean and more like a half-melted dream.

Slurpee waves are rare, but Ben Gravy always makes it happen.

#slurpeewaves #waves #surfscience #montauk #surf #surfing

Cc: @bengravy.bsky.social

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The forces that can rewrite a perfect tide chart Tides feel super clockwork-precise, but a bunch of messy, not-so-predictable things can nudge them around. Here are the big ones.

Tides can be predicted fairly well, but there are surprises here and there.

#tides #oceanography #metereology #weather #surfscience #surf #surfing

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WaveWatch: the global model that changed wind and wave forecasting WaveWatch III is the world's most widely used wind and wave forecasting model. Here's how it began in the Netherlands and evolved in the United States.

Thanks to WaveWatch, originally developed in the late 1980s in the Netherlands, surfers know when to go with greater accuracy.

#wavewatch #waveforecast #windforecast #weather #surfscience #surf #surfing @noaa.gov

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The wind-to-wave height table Check how long it takes the wind to blow over a fetch to generate a certain wave height and wave period.

A wind blowing at 34-40 knots for 36 hours will produce a 14-second swell period and waves of around 37 feet.

#windspeed #waveheight #surfforecast #surfscience #surf #surfing

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How fast do ocean swells travel? What is the speed of a swell as it travels across the ocean? How can you calculate when it will reach your surf break? Here's all the math you need to know.

Wave speed matters. Here are a few simple equations that can tell you a lot about a groundswell and when it will reach your favorite surf break.

#groundswell #waves #surfscience #surfforecast #oceanography #surf #surfing

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The secret life and science of ship-generated waves While engineers keep searching for quieter, cleaner hulls, surfers and scientists alike will always find something fascinating in the moving geometry of a ship's wake.

We know surfers can ride wakes created by moving ships. But what are the interesting and curious facts behind these types of waves?

#wake #waves #surfscience #oceanography #physics #surf #surfing

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How surfers can predict wave height just by reading the wind The SMB method is a semi-empirical system that estimates wave height and period from wind speed, fetch, or duration. It assumes deep water and steady wind blowing over an open water surface.

If a weather map shows a 30 kilometers per hour wind (that's 8.3 m/s) blowing across 200 kilometers of open ocean for several hours, you'll probably get around head-high surf.

#waveheight #windspeed #waveforecast #smbmethod #surfforecast #surfscience #surf #surfing

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Why North Atlantic storms fire up every autumn and winter Winter swells in the North Atlantic are as regular and powerful as clockwork, sending surf from one side of the ocean to the other. Here's why it happens.

Have you ever wonder why exactly there are so many massive swells pounding the East Coast of USA and Europe during the cold season in the Northern Hemisphere? Here's the answer.

#northatlantic #hurricanes #storms #surfscience #meteorology #weather #surf #surfing

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How transverse and longitudinal waves make surfing possible Learn why ocean waves are an orbital motion combination of transverse and longitudinal waves.

As they travel across open seas, ocean waves perform an orbital-like, synchronized, vertical, and horizontal dance.

#transversewaves #longitudinalwaves #waves #surfscience #oceanography #surf #surfing

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Why waves are energy, not matter Here's why a swell is scientifically more like a fluttering flag in the wind and not quite like an avalanche. Learn why waves are pure energy in motion.

The idea that a massive Nazaré wave is just pure energy in motion and not matter seems almost like an optical illusion.

#waves #matter #surfscience #physics #surf #surfing

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Surfboards = engineering you can ride 🌊🏄‍♀️
PU or EPS foam for float
Fiberglass + resin shell for strength
Wood or carbon stringers for structure
Fins, wax, and grip to steer + stick 💥
Materials matter—even at the beach 😎
#SurfScience #MaterialsEverywhere #Engineering

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Why A-frame waves are a surfer's dream A split peak always doubles the chances of surfing. But what makes A-frame waves such a rare, fun, and challenging riding opportunity for surfers? Time to ride left or right.

Doubling the wave-riding options is always welcome. Here's why A-frame waves are rare and precious.

#aframewave #wave #waves #surfscience #surf #surfing

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The hydrodynamic forces at play when you surf You could talk about surfing as a miracle of hydrodynamics. The variables at stake when a surfer rides a wave are so complex that they make it a unique experience of balance.

The number of forces at stake in surfing is such that it is pretty surreal how humans can ride a wave.

#surfscience #hydrodynamics #fluiddynamics #physics #surf #surfing

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How ocean swells propagate, disperse, and group After they're created by the wind and before they reach the coastline, waves go through several propagation processes, including merging and changes in travel speed.

There are a lot of random events taking place between the birth and breaking of a wave, making a surfer's ride an even more unique and rare moment.

#swell #surfscience #surfforecast #waves #oceanography #surf #surfing

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The wind speed to wave height equation The analysis outlined in William G. Van Dorn's 1974 book 'Oceanography and Seamanship' emphasizes that even with moderate wind speeds, the variability in swell formation can lead to occasional extreme...

Waves are a product of the wind. But are wind speed and wave height under a linear equation? The answer is actually quite surprising.

#windspeed #waveheight #surfscience #oceanography #waves #wind #surf #surfing

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How the Coriolis effect influences ocean swells and waves Swells and waves are energy, not mass. So, could they be impacted in any way by the Coriolis effect and bend like large masses of air currents?

Can the magical Coriolis force bend swells?

#corioliseffect #coriolisforce #swell #waves #surfscience #surf #surfing

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A Scientific Inquiry on Bottom Turns, Highlines and Common Surf Injuries Cliff Kapono explains the physics behind two of surfing’s most fundamental moves and where you're next lively to get hurt.

🏄‍♂️ 🌊 Pro surfer and researcher Cliff Kapono recently referenced #URIGSO oceanographer @nickpizzooceans.bsky.social’s work when debating a key question: bottom turn or highline for maximum acceleration?

#SurfScience 🧪 #WavePhysics #Oceanography

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What is a solitary wave? Solitary waves are fascinating because they resist the usual tendency of waves to spread out and dissipate. Here's how they form and behave and where they can be seen.

Imagine a wave that moves potentially indefinitely but never quite breaks.

#solitarywaves #waves #surfscience #oceanography #surf #surfing

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What is wave reflection? Natural or human-made barriers can reflect the direction and drain the energy of waves. Here's how wave reflection works and what distinguishes it from diffraction and refraction.

The law of reflection applies to water, light, and sound. Here's how it works with ocean waves.

#wavereflection #surfscience #oceanography #waves #surf #surfing

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What is a king tide? King tides are the highest tides of the year, occurring naturally and predictably due to specific alignments of celestial bodies. Learn why, how, and when they occur.

King tides may only occur one, two, three, or four times a year but can have devastating impacts on the coastline.

#kingtide #kingtides #tides #surfscience #oceanography #surfing

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